Iguazu

Iguazú Falls

Can you tell what this is?
I have this photo enlarged and displayed in my home. Some visitors think it is a snake; some say an ostrich. It turns out it is a rear view of a female lesser potoo sitting on her nest. The nest contains a single egg and has been built at the end of a broken vertical tree limb. See her now? The lesser potoo is related to the nightjar and frogmouth and is a master of disguise. She will rarely, if ever, leave her nest while incubating her egg. To eat, she simply opens her foul-smelling mouth and waits for an unwary insect to enter thinking that something died therein. Then she closes her mouth and swallows. Dine in delivery. You can see a side view of this same bird at the end of this story.

We were staying three nights at Yacutinga Lodge (www.yacutinga.com), on the Iguazú River in Argentina, just 10 miles east of Iguazú Falls. It was paradise for us, as (non-fanatical) hikers, birdwatchers, and jungle-lovers. The food in the restaurant was superb, and walking around the grounds surrounded by butterflies, woodpeckers and hummingbirds was delightful. Here is our cabin.
We spent two days at Iguazú Falls. If you are going to visit just one waterfall in your lifetime, this is the one. From the Argentinian side (we spent two nights at the Sheraton Hotel on the Argentinian side, with a distant view of the falls), one can walk along metal catwalks constructed along the very top edges of the falls. Look east and you see the river coming toward you; look west and you look out over the great expanse of Brazil. Look straight down and watch 450,000 cu. ft. of water per second tumbling down at your feet. This is about 4.5 times the volume of Niagara Falls. The roar and the vibration are unreal. 
And here is a photo of the Inferno.
Along the way, you can see Devil’s Throat, where the water cascades from three directions into a hole and swallows dart all over catching insects – check out the two dozen brave swallows in the photo below.
We took a bus tour to the Brazilian side (don’t forget your visa!); from here, you can walk for 2-3 hours on a trail along the base of the falls. I know of no other place in the world where the water falls perpendicular to the direction of the river, thus enabling you to walk the length of the falls at its base. A boardwalk has also been constructed to enable you to walk out from the trail into Devil’s Throat – well worth it. 
And while I’m describing “must do” things: you must take the boat ride from the Brazilian side into the falls. The boat actually goes under the falls, thoroughly soaking everybody. A blast!

© Alan M. Davis

If you enjoyed this story, consider buying my book, Unusual Latin America (and Antarctica): Traveling on the Edge. It contains this and twelve other stories of our adventures in Central and South America as well as Antarctica.

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